Appealing 'apps'

Finger food that's out-of-this-world good

Stacee Sledge

Jan 9, 2003 Sometimes the only thing that satisfies a culinary craving is an array of appetizers. Little bits and bites of finger-friendly foods that can range from greasy goodness to vibrant veggies.

You'll find untold numbers of pleasing places throughout Whatcom County that offer the usual, yummy appetizer fare: jalapeno poppers, potato skins, nachos and the like.

But when I'm hankering for a mini-meal or a feast fashioned from a variety of easy-to-share, petite treats, I gravitate to places that serve apps that are a little left of center.

The Calumet

I've long touted the Calumet as my favorite restaurant in Whatcom County. But its appetizers are just as fantastic as its entrees, and I highly recommend popping in for an after-dinner bite with a colorful cocktail.

Its roasted garlic is gastronomical greatness. Cut in half and roasted until its cloves are soft as butter, a large head of garlic is served with an elongated wedge of creamy, pungent, soft-ripened cambozola cheese a mix of camembert and gorgonzola and teamed with slices of toasted Tuscan bread finished with dark grill marks.

A small bunch of sweet grapes garnishes the plate.

Appetizers

The Calumet 
113 E. Magnolia St. 

Phone: 733-3331 

Menu items sampled: Roasted garlic $7.50 
Thai crab cakes $12.50 
Gnocchi $8.50

 

Boundary Bay Brewery & Bistro 
1107 Railroad Ave. 

Phone: 647-5593 

Menu items sampled: Tapenade: $5.95 
Smoked salmon hot pot $8.25 
India Pale Ale $3.25

 

Poppe's Bistro & Lounge 
714 Lakeway Drive 

Phone: 671-1011 

Menu items sampled: Bruschetta $6 
Calamari $8
Toasted ravioli $7

Squeeze one of those soft cloves of garlic out onto a piece of bread already spread with the creamy cheese, and you'll experience heavenly flavors well worth the resulting halitosis.

The Calumet also serves a mean Thai crab cake. Two rotund crab cakes are presented stacked on a bright terra cotta-colored plate sprinkled with fresh cilantro over a drizzle of ginger-basil aioli and spicy chili oil. The top crab cake comes garnished with curly cues of thinly sliced carrot.

With a slight crunch on the outside and tender insides, these crab cakes burst with flavor.

The potato gnocchi is another winning appetizer winner, and can be divided between people or enjoyed as a light meal in itself.

Chef David Evans' handmade potato dumplings are served in a savory basil cream sauce scattered with sun-dried tomatoes and shiitake mushrooms. A recent visit found the gnocchi a tad overcooked far less al dente than I like but the amazing flavor still rang through, and I think the average diner would find it delightful.

Other magnificent morsels on the Calumet's appetizer menu include duck carpaccio, spring rolls and sesame crusted ahi tuna, to name a few of the exotic eats.

Poppe's Bistro & Lounge

Listed under the heading "light bites" on the menu, the appetizers at Poppe's Bistro & Lounge offer something a bit upscale in a comfortable, slightly retro, slick space.

Its bruschetta goes above and beyond the usual, with four large crostini rounds settled on top of a triangle-shaped plate that's been drizzled liberally with an amazing, syrupy balsamic reduction. Each round is topped with fresh Roma tomatoes, roasted garlic, chopped basil and a dollop of flavorful, delicate buffalo Mozzarella cheese.

Poppe's calamari is quite unlike any I've had elsewhere. The first thing we noticed about Poppe's calamari was its light color. It didn't seem undercooked, but it was far less golden than the calamari I'm used to.

Dusted with seasonings and served with an intriguing, sweet apricot cilantro sauce, the calamari at Poppe's seems to have an Asian quality to it and I appreciated the tweak.

There wasn't a smidge of sponginess to be found in this fresh calamari, garnished with a flourish of scallions and pickled ginger shavings.

The browned, breaded ravioli stuffed with portobello mushrooms and cheese ravioli were another pleasant surprise, as six were presented on another charming triangle-shaped dish.

Served with a bowl of bright, flavorful marinara, I think the ravioli were my favorite appetizer at Poppe's. I'll be back to try the crab cakes, roasted garlic and tapenade.

Boundary Bay Brewery & Bistro

Boundary Bay may just be the best place for appetizers and microbrews in Bellingham. Depending on the time of day you drop in at the spacious brewery, it can be boisterous and bustling or laid back and lovely.

If Boundary Bay is in top running for best appetizers, its tapenade may just take the cake for my favorite bite-sized snack.

A rough-chopped blend of olives, capers and sun-dried tomatoes sits in the middle of a large plate topped with a golf-ball size round of creamy tart goat cheese. Eight triangles of thick, chewy, grilled focaccia bread curve around one side of the plate while an equal number of Roma tomato slices finish the circle around the tapenade.

The tomatoes are marinated in a Thai vinaigrette that makes my mouth water now just thinking of it. They are topped with a chiffonade of basil.

All of these ingredients combine to make for fantabulous finger food.

The smoked salmon hot pot at Boundary Bay is also worth a try. A warm bowl of smoky salmon pieces combined with amber ale cream cheese, spinach and chipotle are surrounded by slices of fresh bread and slightly thinner rounds of crunchy dinner croutons.

The entire plate is then topped with a generous dusting of freshly grated Parmesan.

If my descriptions of these two appetizers aren't enough to tempt you, visit Boundary Bay's Web site at www.bbaybrewery.com to read about the other scrumptious starters that are served, from Mediterranean hummus with cucumbers, feta cheese and warm pita bread to golden Dungeness crab cakes coupled with red pepper relish and turmeric aioli.

Appetizers are appealing for a light meal, after-dinner drinks with friends or just to try several different dishes for a revealing overview of what a restaurant can do.

The Calumet, Poppe's and Boundary Bay all serve attention-grabbing nibbles that are well worth a visit.

The Fine Print: I dine on my own dime. The opinions herein are mine alone, not The Bellingham Herald's. Agree? Disagree? Please drop me a line at StaceeSledge@hotmail.com.

 

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