Justified raves

Seafood cooks over the fire at the Bella Isola Ristorante Italiano in Anacortes. JAY DROWNS HERALD PHOTO

Bella Isola serves up exquisite Italian food

Stacee Sledge

Mar 28, 2002 In Italian Bella Isola means "beautiful island," a spot-on moniker for this fantastic Anacortes eatery on Fidalgo Island.

My husband and I drove the 40 short and scenic miles to Anacortes on a recent Saturday night to try the Italian restaurant, which I'd heard raves about. We had an early seating and by the time we left at 7 p.m., the restaurant was nearly full. Bella Isola Ristorante Italiano is definitely a popular place, and I'm sorry I hadn't caught wind of it until recently.

Walking into the restaurant, you encounter an inviting, wood-lined bar to your right, and three separate dining areas straight ahead and to your left. The bright space is two stories high and open to the ceiling, making the restaurant feel cozy and spacious at the same time. An intriguing roof-like structure decorates the upper portion of the entire dining area, with charming wood shingles and faux windows.

The dining room we were led to was lined with large windows and decorative white lace curtains. Plants of all shapes and sizes covered the ledges beneath the windows. The walls were partly wood paneled, partly covered in a soft gray color.

Bustling through the dining rooms were black-clad wait staff wrapped in crisp white aprons. A round loaf of piping hot peasant bread instantly appeared on our table, served with garlic- and herb-infused olive oil and the pièce de résistance an entire head of roasted garlic.

Bella Isola
Ristorante Italiano

Location:
619 Commercial Ave., Anacortes

Phone: 299-8398

Serving: A predominantly Italian menu, with a large selection that includes pasta, seafood, pork chops, rib steak, chicken dishes and salads, as well as individual-style pizzas. Lunch and dinner.

Menu items sampled: Sauté di funghi $8.95
Penne con vodka $14.95

Lombatine di maiale with Caesar salad $21.45
Bailey's chocolate mousse $5

Roasted garlic is an appetizer in one of my favorite Seattle restaurants, but here it's par for the course. I was delighted. We squeezed the soft cloves of garlic onto the springy bread, spread it around and devoured it.

The menu is vast, complete with pasta dishes, salads, pizzas, seafood selections and meat choices. The wine list is also immense, in addition to domestic, local and Italian ales. Espresso is a given at any good Italian restaurant, as well as a selection of San Pellegrino sodas.

We began with an appetizer of sauté di funghi, or sautéed mushrooms. Served in an enormous shallow bowl, a variety of exotic mushrooms were cooked with garlic and fresh herbs, then finished with a divine red wine butter sauce. Grilled pieces of buttery bread were laid out in an X on the platter, then covered at the center with the soft, flavorful mushrooms. The bread was ideal for sopping up the outstanding sauce.

My husband's classic Caesar salad was prepared with crisp hearts of romaine, homemade croutons and Bella Isola's own dressing of extra virgin olive oil and fresh grated parmesan. Just right in its simpleness, it made a fitting second course.

My second course was the highlight of the meal (in an evening filled with outstanding food). A cream of artichoke soup was brought to the table steaming hot, with soft, salty artichoke hearts and bits of roasted red pepper swimming in a creamy base.

A trusted foodie friend had advised me to order the penne con vodka, a dish of the familiar rolled pasta tubes served with paper-thin prosciutto and tumbled with a tomato, cream and chili pepper vodka sauce.

It was sublime. The saltiness of the prosciutto balanced beautifully with the cream's richness, while the vodka gave the dish bite. Thin slices of garlic sprinkled throughout the dish added further flavor and interest.

My husband ordered the lombatine di maiale, an enormous serving of two center-cut pork chops grilled with olive oil, garlic and fresh sage. The succulent charbroiled pork chops were served with a light porcini mushroom sauce, alongside a handful of cauliflower florets drizzled in a tomato sauce that included kalamata olives. A straightforward swirl of fettuccine rounded out the entrée.

Dessert was a tough choice, as we were too full to do more than order and split one item between us. We narrowed it down to the chocolate torte with mint, a rum-based tiramisu or Bailey's chocolate mousse.

After much debate, we opted for the mousse and we weren't disappointed. Served in a wine glass and topped with fresh whipped cream and chocolate shavings, two generous scoops of dense chocolate mousse cradled a middle layer of Bailey's Irish cream. A rolled sugar wafer cookie gracefully garnished the sugary final course.

Bella Isola also caters to the lunch crowd, offering an array of salads, including the fisherman's salad with scallops, prawns and fresh fish grilled and plated atop their Caesar salad. Eight different paninis can be had, served with parmesan potatoes, salad or soup. Pizzas, pastas, seafood and meat specialties can also be had.

A children's menu is available, serving sausage or simple cheese pizza, "basketti" and meatballs, chicken and broccoli, and cheesey noodles and parmesan, each for less than $4.

We left the restaurant pleasantly full and already thinking of our next visit.

The Fine Print: I dine on my own dime. The opinions herein are mine alone, not The Bellingham Herald's. Agree? Disagree? Please drop me a line at StaceeSledge@hotmail.com.

 

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