Owned by Caitac Corp., the proprietor of the hotel and its
surrounding business park, Bistecca is run by chef and manager
Mark Moehn. A graduate of the prestigious Western Culinary
Institute in Portland, Ore., he trained for three years in New
Orleans under celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse. After a stint at
Homestead Farms Golf Resort in Lynden, Moehn opened Bistecca
with hopes of effectively blending northern Italian cuisine with
steak. He has succeeded.
Passing a duo of charming mosaic tables near the entrance, we
were quickly greeted and led through an arched doorway into an
intimate dining room warm with taupe walls and a deep
reddish-orange ceiling, punctuated by wood beams, stone wall
accents, architectural sconces and flickering candles. A large
window opened into the kitchen, giving diners a glimpse of the
hard work involved in creating such a special dining experience.
Each of the dozen tables was draped in either burgundy or
deep green damask tablecloths. Enormous wine glasses were
displayed alongside simple yet elegant white china.
Our server was attentive, informative, formal and friendly
all rolled into one. Bistecca would be a perfect fit for any
celebratory dinner or a night out when you want to feel
pampered.
The menu, heavy on the high-quality Certified Angus Beef,
also offers further upscale delights, including Alaskan spot
shrimp, grilled salmon piccata and pistachio chicken.
Slices of just-right crusty bread were served with tongs from
a long basket. Olive oil was poured onto a small plate alongside
a cruet of balsamic vinegar for an ideal companion to the chewy
bread.
We began with an appetizer of ricotta gnocchi, Italian potato
dumplings topped with a rich Gorgonzola cream sauce, briny
kalamata olives, tomatoes, and fresh basil. The texture of the
gnocchi was spot on — a seemingly difficult task at many Italian
restaurants, where it's often served overcooked to a mush. The
sauce was a wonderful complement of savory flavors.
Next up were exceptional salads built of baby greens — including spinach, radicchio, and frisée
— covered in a tangy
balsamic vinaigrette. It was a straightforward salad and
harmonized well with the more complicated tastes and textures of
our appetizer.
For my flank portobello, thin bias-cut slices of medium flank
steak were fanned out with equally thin wedges of portobello
slices resting atop. A decadent sauce that included truffle oil,
tomatoes and shiitake, cremini, and porcini mushrooms added the
crowning touch to this sumptuous dish.My side dishes were
equally pleasing. Creamed spinach mixed with garlic and thin
slices of onion was served aside a piped heap of delectable
garlic mashed potatoes drizzled lightly with a balsamic syrup
and garnished with a long sprig of fresh rosemary.
My husband ordered the veal saltimboca. Tender, flavorful
slices of veal were topped with prosciutto, fresh sage, and the
non-traditional but totally tantalizing Taleggio cheese.
Although I'm not generally a veal fan, I tasted the dish and
found it fabulous. My husband agreed and left behind nary a
morsel.
He, too, chose the garlic mashed potatoes as a side dish, but
selected savory spaghetti squash to round out his plate.
And then, the tiramisu. Our server proudly proclaimed it the
best in the city, but we've heard that before.
Oh, we of little faith.
Spongy ladyfingers nestled between
layers of creamy Marsala- and dark rum-infused Mascarpone
cheese, topped off with the decadent flavor of exceptional
espresso. The sumptuous square was crowned with a liberal
dusting of fresh cocoa. Simple, unfussy, perfect.
Bistecca is the type of restaurant that's exciting to
discover. The chef and his staff took the time to make sure our
meal was a special occasion, even though it was just an average
Monday night out. Look them up the next time you're celebrating — or simply craving an expertly prepared steak.
