Steaks, German-style

Relaxed setting, great at food at Black Forest

Oct 3, 2002 — Jack Niemann's Black Forest Steak & Schnitzel House in Everson is all about comfort. The cozy feel of a log cabin, the soothing glow of low lighting, roomy seats and stick-to-your ribs grub galore. German-inspired steaks, schnitzel, soups and more make this gem in the county worth the drive.

The first thing that greets you at Black Forest is a heavy wooden door with a handle fashioned creatively from an ax. My friend Kris and I couldn't help but laugh good naturedly. If you're teetering on the edge of vegetarianism, this might help you make the commitment.

Luckily for us, neither is ready to make that leap, and we swung the heavy door open, looking forward happily to a hearty meal.

Entering the spacious restaurant is like being blanketed in warmth; this would be an ideal place to tuck in on a rain-soaked, blustery night.

Wood planks line the vaulted ceiling, punctuated by round logs. Before being shown to our seat, we enjoyed a view of the grill, on display behind a plate of glass and framed by large stones and dark green tile.

Jack Niemann's Black Forest Steak & Schnitzel House

Location: 203 W. Main St., Everson Phone: (360) 966-2855 Hours: 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., Monday through Saturday 5 p.m. to 9 p.m., Sunday Serving: German-inspired steaks and schnitzel in a cozy, welcoming atmosphere. Menu items sampled:  Jalapeno poppers $4.95 French onion soup $2.95 Schnitzel Cordon Bleu $16.45 12-oz. logger's steak $21.45 Cheesecake $4.25 Cabernet $4.50

A full shelf of leather-bound books resting above our lace-covered table contributed to the lodge-like feel of the dining room. It was early on a Tuesday night, but we'd watch the tables around us fill up with hungry couples and families.

Our server was sensational. I know nothing about German cuisine, but she answered my questions about schnitzel and spaetzle with a patient smile, as though she'd not been asked countless times before.

The appetizer selection didn't strike us as terribly traditional, but we found a handful of tempting starters.

The escargot nearly won me over, but Kris didn't seem keen on it, so we kept considering. Mussels and a variety of prawn appetizers also intrigued, but in the end, we settled on jalapeno poppers.

Fried foods, when done right, can be first-rate. Black Forest's poppers were some of the best I've had, crispy, crunchy and flavorful. The five sizeable, cream cheese-filled bites of jalapeno heat were paired with a nondescript mayonnaise-based dip that quenched some of the fire. Ironically, this was the only time during our meal when our water glasses sat empty. Every other aspect of the service was spot-on.

I chose French onion soup as a second course, while Kris went with the Caesar salad.

The terrine of French onion soup was the best I've had in some time. Topped with a thick layer of melted cheese atop a piece of bread that had soaked up the salty, oniony broth, I took my time and savored the scrumptious soup.

Unfortunately, Kris found her salad a bit bland; its dressing would have benefited from a heavier hand with the garlic. Although the portion was generous, she counted only three croutons hidden amongst the crisp romaine leaves.

But she perked right up at the third item set between us, a basket that held two enormous slices of garlic toast. Sometimes the simplest things are the best. The toast was smushy and soft and buttery, but encased in a thin crisp layer. Definitely not a heart healthy dish with all that bad-for-you butter, but so yummy.

The menu claims their schnitzel cordon bleu won first prize at the World's Culinary Competition in Paris, France.

The reporter in me had to ask our server if that was true. She didn't give me a direct yes or no answer, but she did say it was an amazing dish, and I was sold.

The breaded pork cutlet was pounded thin and filled with smoky-salty Black Forest ham and Swiss cheese, served atop a gargantuan plate alongside sweet-tangy red cabbage, zucchini slices topped with a bit of sautéed onion, and flavorful discs of sliced potatoes pan fried with bacon and onion.

The menu includes a detailed description of the temperatures of the steaks served at Black Forest. From blue rare to the well done, the bovine novice knows exactly what to expect. The menu warns that medium well and well done temperatures result in steaks that are "sadly overcooked," with "all the goodness and juiciness destroyed."

But Kris prefers her steak cooked medium well and encountered no resistance when she ordered the logger's 12 oz. steak prepared as such.

The beef at Black Forest is aged in the restaurant's coolers for 27 days, then custom cut on site. This attention to detail shines through in the quality and flavor. Even cooked medium well, the logger's steak was flavorful, juicy enough for our liking, and simply satisfying. Served with sautéed mushrooms and onions, which complimented the steak nicely, the steak was also served with fresh zucchini and those stupendous spuds.

Although we were full past all reasonable measure, we shared a slice of creamy, traditional cheesecake topped with a simple strawberry sauce. It hit just the right note as we finished up, bid our friendly server goodbye, and made the short drive back to Bellingham.

I know where I'm taking my Midwestern family the next time they visit.

The Fine Print: I dine on my own dime. The opinions herein are mine alone, not The Bellingham Herald's. Agree? Disagree? Please drop me a line at StaceeSledge@hotmail.com.