Celtic flavor

Peggy and Russell Boggs own Bombadil's Bakery & Book on Cornwall Avenue. The eatery bakes organic breads, biscotti, cookies and entrees, and brews organic coffee drinks. PETE KENDALL HERALD PHOTO

Settle into Bombadil's Bakery & Book

Stacee Sledge

Apr 25, 2002 What a difference just one more visit can make.

My first trip to Bombadil's Bakery & Book in February left a lot to be desired. The downtown bakery had been open for nearly two months, serving an array of intriguing seasonal lunch and dinner items many of them vegetarian with a touch of Celtic influence. But confused service and somewhat bland entrées made for a disappointing lunch.

Bombadil's
Bakery & Book

Location:
1319 Cornwall Ave.

Phone: 671-3548

Serving: Mostly organic vegetarian and Celtic-inspired dishes, including soups, sandwiches and desserts.

Menu items sampled:
Veggie pastie and Irish minestrone $9.95

Sausage pastie and potato salad $9.95
Polenta lasagna and Gouda broccoli soup $9.95
Chocolate Irish whiskey cake $5
Chicken and cheese pasty $7.95
Hummus plate $4.95
Shitake and cauliflower soup $4.50

I tried again a few days later and happily found it to be a delightful space to nip in for coffee and dessert.

Two months passed, and I decided to give Bombadil's another try before handing in my final review. What a turnaround.

A traditional British phone box greets you as you enter the eatery. The red kiosk is the first of many intriguing objects in this roomy, well-lit space.

Crystals and mineral stones are displayed for sale in intricate wood and glass cabinets. A small shelf holds board games, inviting patrons to sit and stay awhile. Tucked to the left of the bakery case, cascading down a narrow hallway, are floor-to-ceiling bookshelves, lined with used books for perusing or purchase.

Punctuating purple swirls of textured paint bring color to an otherwise bright-white-walls décor, interposed with dark-wood woodwork and antique pieces and a quirky mish-mash of heavy wood tables and chairs.

A small stage rests in one corner, for live music on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights and open mic on Tuesdays.

The menu board was a touch confusing to decipher, but after asking a couple of clarifying questions, we were able to place our orders.

The food itself was a lesson in complements. While some of the food was tasty, other items bordered on the plain.

A generous portion of potato salad arrived first, a bowlful of large cubes of soft potato, piquant onion, a bit of diced red pepper and fragrant fresh herbs.

In keeping with its Celtic theme, Bombadil's offers pasties, which originated in Cornwall, England, in the 18th century and were the standard lunch of tin miners. The savory turnovers consist of a short-crust pastry enfolding a chopped meat-and-potato filling. Simple food for simple eats.

I ordered the sausage, egg and potato pasty, while one of my lunch companions ordered the veggie version. Though the crusts were moist and buttery, the fillings were beyond bland. Spicier meat would have given the dish a boost.

Lucky for her, my friend ordered the Irish minestrone soup, a tomato-based soup with beans. The soup was exceedingly spicy so hot that our server announced that a splotch of yogurt had been added to temper the heat. The fiery soup complemented the pasty well.

Organic bread is baked daily at the bakery. One was an olive rosemary bread, which was soft and flavorful. A dark rye was also served, sprinkled with pumpkin and sesame seeds.

My other dining companion ordered the polenta lasagna and a bowl of Gouda broccoli soup.

Her lasagna was fine, if a bit compact. The concoction was layered with wedges of firm corn polenta, a stripe of puréed spinach and basil sauce, ricotta cheese and a thin slice of eggplant. The Gouda broccoli soup was a bit of a mystery, brown, thick and heavy, with a muddled and indefinable flavor.

I went back a few days later. A towering carrot cake I had seen in the bakery case had enticed me in the ensuing days, and I was anxious to give it a try.

Unfortunately, the carrot cake was gone by the time I arrived, but I spied a chocolate Irish whiskey cake that looked equally as tempting. I placed my order at the counter, and settled into a comfy armchair with an accompanying side table.

A slice of the dark, thick cake was brought out quickly. Mmm, now this was more like it. Sinfully rich, chock-a-block with nuts, and crowned with a truffle topping, this cake was enough to sway me to return to Bombadil's Garden yet again. I thought I should give them some time to ease their growing pains.

A recent lunch visit to Bombadil's proved infinitely more pleasant. Service was quick, affable and exceedingly competent.

I ordered the chicken and cheese pasty this time, and was pleased to note a lot more flavor than my first sample. Piquant pepper and flavorful cheddar cheese mixed with moist chicken pieces and sizeable chunks of carrots to make a truly satisfying entrée.

My lunch companion ordered the shitake and cauliflower soup and a hummus plate. She declared her soup delightful, a pleasing blend of exotic tastes both sweet and spicy, its vegetable base spiced with curry.

The dense hummus was a bit on the dry side, but some people prefer it that way. It could have used a touch more garlic. The accompanying cucumber slices and crisp carrot sticks were a nice addition, but a bit skimpy on the serving size. A yummy, crusty dark bread was served with the hummus, punctuated by tasty pumpkin seeds.

Bombadil's Bakery & Book has won me over. It's a charming spot for a relaxed mid-day meal or coffee and a sweet treat. While our first lunch experience was less than satisfactory, many of the things that had been off kilter two months ago appeared to be smoothed over during a recent visit. The service was so friendly and earnest, I hope this charming bakery finds its niche.

The Fine Print: I dine on my own dime. The opinions herein are mine alone, not The Bellingham Herald's. Agree? Disagree? Please drop me a line at StaceeSledge@hotmail.com.

 

Home | Resume | Clients & Projects | Writings | Contact


© 2002 The Bellingham Herald
All rights reserved