A finer diner

Chubby's Diner customers (from left) Grant Gormley, Stan Larson, Dave Milholland and Craig Allen enjoy lunch at the popular Bellingham restaurant. PHILIP A. DWYER HERALD PHOTO

Chubby's recreates an American classic

Stacee Sledge

Apr 4, 2002 Historically, a diner is a factory-built restaurant, transported to its site intact or in pieces to be put together, with a counter and bolted-down stools that swivel. That's it. But we all know a diner can be much more than that, offering tasty and abundant if not fancy food, low prices, and quick service with a smile. Diners are unpretentious, comfortable and essentially American.

Chubby's Diner on Meridian, while not a diner in the strict historical sense, is most certainly a diner in all of these most important ways.

The diner is a dying breed. Once extremely popular in the Northeast, their numbers have dwindled since the heyday in the first half of the 20th century. But a new type of diner has been created and thrived in our country, the type that pops up in strip malls and other modern structures, like Chubby's.

When I was in grad school, my favorite Des Moines, Iowa, diner was only a block from campus. Open bright and early, the Drake Diner was an ideal place to go for last-minute exam cramming and jitter-inducing cup after cup of coffee.

I don't know maybe I'd had my fill of diner food when I arrived in Bellingham but something kept me from trying Chubby's. When a friend recently raved about its strawberry shakes, I decided it was time to give it a go.

What took me so long?

Chubby's Diner

Location:
4277 Meridian

Phone: 738-4321

Serving: Back-to-the-'50s basics from breakfast to dinner.

Menu items sampled: Rock-n-Roller hamburger $5.29
Chicken strips $6.29
Strawberry Sh-boom Shake $2.79
Ham and cheese omelet $5.49
Coffee $1.10

Entering Chubby's Diner is like stepping back in time to happier days. Stainless steel sparkles and 1950s music sets the stage, while yellow neon musical notes decorate the back wall. Vintage metal signs advertising Pepsi Cola and Vitamilk pepper the white walls, along with colorful prints of classic hot rods.

Eight swiveling stools hug the L-shaped counter, hovered over by vaguely UFO-shaped pendant light fixtures. There are eight booths to choose from as well, wrapped in black vinyl speckled with silver and lined in yellow piping. A glass and steel straw holder rests on the table, reminding me that I'll need to return to try that strawberry shake.

Even at 10:45 a.m. on a Monday morning, Chubby's was turning over tables. Two regulars sat at the counter chatting with the server, one large booth held a group of state troopers, and the booth next to mine held what looked like a vacationing family, whose young daughter kept peeking over at me and grinning shyly.

A pile of the day's newspapers were lined up on the counter for browsing. I enjoyed my piping hot cup of coffee over the comics, reading a paper that had already seen its share of sticky syrup from someone's high stack.

I ordered my old grad school diner standby, the ham and cheese omelet, served with grilled potatoes and toast. With a ding of the bell underneath the massive and gleaming stainless steel oven vent behind the counter, my order was up.

An oblong, heavy china plate held a gaggle of grilled potatoes flanking a fluffy omelet brimming with small squares of salty ham and shredded cheddar cheese. The potatoes were served exactly as I like them: some slices soft and just done, others cut smaller and cooked to a crisp. I topped them with a bit of ketchup from the red squeeze bottle on the table and dug in.

My husband and I returned for dinner a few nights later. Again the place was doing swift business, and although there was only one server this time, she was efficiently handling all her customers.

"Surfin USA" and "Whole Lotta Shakin' Goin' On" resonated at a tolerable level while we mulled over the menu. I opted for chicken strips, while my husband went for the Rock-n-Roller hamburger. We also ordered that strawberry shake I'd been looking forward to trying.

The young cook working the grill really fit the '50s mold: white t-shirt sleeves rolled up, short hair with long sideburns. And he made a mean diner meal in a flash.

Our strawberry shake arrived quickly, served in a tall, heavy malt-shop glass, alongside the chilled container it was created in, half-full of even more of the sugary goodness. A mountain of thick whipped cream rested atop the insanely flavorful sweet treat and on top of that a bright red maraschino cherry.

"Can't touch our buns," declared the T-shirt our server was wearing and it's true! The bun encompassing my husband's hamburger was impressive. Tall, light, simple and distinctively homemade, it complemented the petite but flavorful hamburger patty, piled high with mushrooms, tomato, pickle, iceberg lettuce, onion, a dollop of special sauce and a slice of cheese. A heap of large-cut french fries shared the plate, with just a bit of skin left on to add taste and texture. The fries were hot and crisp, yet not at all greasy.

My three substantial, crisp chicken strips were served on a bed of iceberg lettuce with a wedge of lemon. I would have enjoyed some sort of dipping sauce, but in the end, the savory strips stood well on their own. Just like the french fries served with my husband's hamburger, there wasn't a drop of residual grease to be found on the heavily breaded chicken pieces. We were impressed.

My side salad comprised crisp iceberg lettuce, ripe tomatoes, cucumber, shreds of carrot and a large handful of fresh mushrooms, a nice touch.

We spied the remains of a two fresh berry pies displayed in a case by the cash register on our way out, directly below a board listing all 18 flavors of malts and shakes. The strawberry shake had sated our sweet tooths, but we'll try a slice next time.

The downhill slide for diners began in the late 1950s, when fast food restaurants proliferated, displacing the eateries as a source of economical eats to those in a rush. It's sad, really. I much prefer the personal experience offered by Chubby's. You get fresh food in nearly the same record time, an infinitely more satisfying experience, and the bonus of a genuine, friendly smile.

The Fine Print: I dine on my own dime. The opinions herein are mine alone, not the Bellingham Herald's. Agree? Disagree? Please drop me a line at StaceeSledge@hotmail.com.

 

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