Jan
24, 2002 — I'll
admit it: I'm addicted to the Food Network. One of the programs I
enjoy most is "Cooking School Stories." This six-part
series follows a class at the prestigious Johnson & Wales
University in Providence, Rhode Island, giving a glimpse into what
it takes to earn a professional culinary degree.
Now that's my idea of reality television.
When I learned that the Culinary Arts Program of Bellingham
Technical College operates the Café Culinaire as part of its
curriculum, I had to stop in. What I discovered was one of the
best-kept dining secrets in Bellingham.
Tucked inside a campus building, the hallway leading to the Café
Culinaire opens into a large, brick-walled room, holding fewer
than a dozen round, attractively skirted, glass-topped tables. The
space initially has a classroom feel, but once you settle into
your high-backed, gold-upholstered chair, you become distracted by
the friendly and attentive service, and begin to notice the
food-related art lining the walls.
The limited but impressive menu was our first hint that we were
in for a treat. The selections ranged from lamb chops with roasted
shallot marmalade to chicken breast with garlic, hazelnut confit
and apple whisky glaze. I've rarely found such a sophisticated
assortment in a Bellingham restaurant.
Detail is the order of the day at the Café Culinaire. Even the
presentation of the rolls and butter proved special. Fashioned
into the shape of two overlapping leaves, the butter was
criss-crossed with two verdant stems of chive. The rolls were
slightly sweet, light and yeasty, and contained a pleasant hint of
rosemary.
The roasted tomato and baby leek bisque was welcomed on this
cool winter day. A Tillamook cheddar twist floated in the bowl,
adding a crunchy texture to each smooth sip. The flavor was
restrained, while the minced leek added sweetness and texture.
Another enticing appetizer, the Penn Cove mussels were served
in a wonton crust that added eye-catching height to the plate.
Steamed with lemon grass, star anise and fennel, the dark-shelled
mussels were plump and palatable.
The spinach and frisee salad offered a unique twist on the
standard warm spinach salad. Built atop thick, peppery slices of
bacon, the wilted greens were tossed with bleu cheese, candied
walnuts, and a sherry vinegar splash. Crisp Stoneybrook apples
fanned the edge of the plate, supplying a needed contrast to all
the creamy, salty flavors.
Our entrées were memorable for their unexpected flavor
combinations and distinctive presentations.
The pork loin was, yet again, served in an eye-catching,
impressive manner. Grilled with fresh rosemary tapenade and
Whidbey Port Sauce, the small, flavorful pork cutlets were built
into a layered tower with savory chive pancakes. The dryness of
the pancakes balanced the succulence of the pork.
Tender sea scallops were served over noodles in a Sauvignon
Blanc and saffron-infused cream sauce. The saffron added its
unique pungent flavor (there's a reason it's the most expensive
seasoning in the world), but did not overwhelm. Roma tomatoes,
fresh basil and shallots rounded out the dish. One slight
disappointment: The long, wide pappardelle noodles were a touch
too al dente.
The salmon strudel, triangles of Northwest salmon fillets were
topped with sautéed onions and crab sandwiched between
leaf-thin-layers of phyllo dough, rested in a rich pool of
burgundy-colored Madeira butter sauce. The flavor of the Dungeness
crab was a bit overwhelmed by the stronger tasting salmon, but the
dish still proved pleasing. It was accompanied by a delicate tower
of wild rice and chanterelle flan, which was a bit muted next to
the richness of the salmon.
Sadly, the desserts listed on the menu the day of our visit
were not available. But we happily accepted the substituted apple
tarte tatin with caramel sauce. Flaky, gooey and insanely yummy,
the three of us cooed our way through it.
The Culinary Arts Program is a two-year American Culinary
Federation accredited program, culminating in an Associate in
Applied Science degree. Enrollees learn through a combination of
theory and lab courses in food production and management,
purchasing and receiving, short order and restaurant cooking,
baking, and several additional specialized courses. Students have
gone on to cook in such popular area eateries as Pacific Café,
Fino Wine Bar and Fine Food, and Pierside at Resort Semiahmoo. The
restaurant is open from 11:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. Tuesday through
Friday, and takes time off during academic breaks.
