Apr
18, 2002 — I
often hear people grumble about the lack of fantastic Mexican food
in our area. I'm pretty unpicky and have always been able to find
an adequate burrito when the hankering hits. But when several of
my husband's co-workers began to buzz about Espinoza Mexican
Restaurant in Sehome Village, I took note.
Open since January, this casual, spacious eatery features
bright, cheerful and colorful décor. Bands of color — orange,
yellow and aqua-green — race around the walls, while murals depict
south-of-the-border street scenes. Look for the whimsical light
fixtures made from buckets.
The Espinoza family history is told through a childhood
photograph of brothers Lupe and Marcos who run the place
(alongside Lupe's wife, Lori) and a stunning portrait of their
mother taken many years ago.
Espinoza sets itself apart from most other Mexican restaurants
right away. Rather than bring a simple basket of warm chips to the
table, our server delivered a small plate of nachos, topped with
beans, cheese, tomatoes, scallions and white onion. If you enjoy
this sample of nachos Espinoza as much as we did, a larger version
can be ordered as a full appetizer.
For those who still crave plain chips and salsa, peek around
the corner to the nacho bar, where you can fill a basket with as
many crisp chips as you like. Across the way is an accompanying
salsa bar, offering half a dozen homemade sauces that range from
mild to sweat-inducing. You can wash down their scorching rojo
salsa with a nice selection of import and domestic beers.
As a second appetizer, we ordered the cheese crispy, a hefty,
crunchy flour tortilla topped with melted cheddar and jack cheese.
Topped with Espinoza's fresh guacamole and the salsa that
accompanied our nachos, it was a sinfully cheesy delight.
You know the old saying about having eyes too big for your
stomach? Well, that adage certainly held true for our visit to
Espinoza. Fooled by the insanely affordable prices, I ordered a
two-item combo. Egad! One enchilada would have been more than
enough to satisfy, but I was also brought a beautiful chicken
chimichanga on a second plate.
The enchilada's flour tortilla was stuffed with succulent
shredded beef, then topped with a flavorful enchilada sauce. Large
portions of Mexican rice and refried beans filled out the rest of
the large plate, garnished with finely shredded lettuce and a bit
of colorful red cabbage.
Scoops of sour cream and guacamole rested aside my chimichanga
on its smaller plate. This crisp, fried version of a burrito was
light and flaky, chockful of savory shredded chicken, and covered
with a sprinkle of cheddar and jack cheeses.
The arroz con pollo was a knockout.
Large chunks of boneless chicken breast were served over rice
and melted Monterey Jack cheese, topped with a mild tomato sauce
containing mushrooms and onions.
Nearly all dishes include a choice of refried, black or
cholesterol-free ranchero beans, white or Mexican rice, and a corn
or flour tortilla.
For money-conscious college student, you can't beat Espinoza's
fantastically affordable all-you-can-eat taco bar, for just $3.95
from 3 p.m. to 8 p.m. on Sundays and Tuesdays.
A children's list of options is also available, for only $1.50
every day or 99 cents on Sunday.
Espinoza's proved to be a super spot for anyone with a budget
and a large appetite. Only one menu item topped 10 bucks, servings
were enormous and filling, and service was fast and
ultra-friendly. Most items — from their salsas, chili rellenos and
tamales — are made daily from scratch, clearly evident in the
taste and quality of the food.
At the end of our meal, a plate of sweet tortilla chips was
brought out, dusted with sugar and cinnamon, and then drizzled
with chocolate and strawberry sauce. A thick line of whipped crème
finished the unanticipated and highly enjoyable ending to a fine
meal.
