Apr
17, 2003 — Sometimes
thinking small can lead to big things.
Open since last July, Ferndale's Frank-N-Stein serves locally
brewed ales, Mount Baker Vineyard wines and an assortment of
sausages in a charming, cozy, Main Street space that boasts less
than 500 square feet. Franks and steins; hence the name.
But like its limited menu, the smoke-free Frank-N-Stein
shoehorns a lot of character into every square inch of space.
A recent visit found a trio of us in Ferndale on a Wednesday
night, looking for a bite to eat. Spotting Frank-N-Stein on the
main drag of Ferndale, we decided to give it a go. The name
itself is enough to draw you in.
The first thing you notice when you enter the petite pub is
its narrowness.
Then you see the impressive bar, once part of the buffet at
Bellingham's King Table's restaurant. Made by a local artist and
available for sale, a collection of funky wood birdhouses
decorate the cozy space.
Busily working behind the bar was owner Lloyd Zimmerman, a
Blaine native who has transformed this 460-square-foot former
barbershop into a desired destination for anyone looking for
quality ales, affordable eats and a gracious welcome.
Frank-N-Stein is a decidedly family-friendly place. Kids will
slurp up the pub's homemade Max's Root Beer, named for
Zimmerman's son Maxwell.
Frank-N-Stein |
Location:
2030 Main St., Ferndale.
Phone: 383-0707
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., Tuesday through
Friday. 4 to 9 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday
Serving: Hempler's smoked sausages, locally
brewed ales and Mount Baker Vineyards wines.
Menu items sampled:
Frankfurter $3.75
Bratwurst $3.75
Kielbasa $3.75
Border Porter $3.50
Boundary Bay Blonde $3.50
Scottish Pale Ale $3.50
Root beer $1.50 |
Ordering was simple at Frank-N-Stein: Each of us was
simultaneously given a hearty hello and a slip of paper listing
the sausage and drink offerings. We simply circled what we
wanted, signed our names at the bottom of each slip, and slid
them across the bar to Zimmerman.
The menu is limited, serving five different Hempler's B.B.
Meat & Sausage products, including frankfurter, knockwurst,
bratwurst, German sausage and kielbasa.
But if you know anything about Hempler's
— a long-popular Bellingham company that
sells no-nitrate ham, bacon and sausage using naturally grown
Oregon Country Beef
— you know it creates high-quality,
flavorful sausages.
The condiment choices add to the options: sauerkraut, onions,
green chili, cream cheese, mustard and ketchup.
You can have your sausage served in one of three ways: the
Dracula (on a stake), the mummy (wrapped in a flour tortilla) or
the monster (built the way you want it on a bun).
Let's not forget the main draw at Frank-N-Stein: Zimmerman
serves ales made on-site at the half-brew pub, as well as beers
from other local breweries, such as Boundary Bay. In fact,
Boundary Bay's Ed Bennett helped Zimmerman get Frank-N-Stein off
the ground.
Zimmerman brews delicate, unfiltered, unpasteurized ales that
have a shorter shelf-life than those you'll find at Boundary, so
they're meant to be consumed within a few weeks.
At such paltry prices
— $2.50 for a 10-ounce micro-stein and
$3.50 for 16 ounces
— you can sample each of the handful on
tap. We ended up trying Ed Bennett's Boundary Bay Blonde, a
Scottish pale ale and Zimmerman's dark Border Porter, featured
for many years at Blaine's Bordertown Tavern.
Because the front area of the pub was filled, we made our way
to a narrow hallway at the back and settled on high stools
perched at a tall round table.
After a short wait, Zimmerman brought our mugs of ale and
root beer, served in tall, heavy steins of clear glass. Each
drink was a hit.
A few minutes later, Zimmerman showed up with the food,
passing out red baskets lined with red-and-white checkered
paper. He had taken the time to note each of our names on our
order slips and placed our sausages in front of each of us with
a casual mention of which basket belonged to whom.
Kris had a classic frankfurter with Dijon mustard, ketchup
and onions, while my husband went with a bratwurst covered in
the same condiments. I chose the Polish kielbasa simply topped
with Dijon and onion. Each was flavorful, especially the
kielbasa with its spicy kick.
Zimmerman doesn't skimp on anything; the heap of sliced red
onions scattered over each sausage was almost overwhelming.
The delicious, oversized buns encased each sausage and its
surplus of condiments. I can't remember when I've had better
— not even at the ballpark.
We were all impressed with the meal and with Zimmerman's
ability to stop by and talk with us without being intrusive. His
friendliness alone would draw each of us back, and it was just
gravy that the meal was so delicious, simple and affordable.
Hours at Frank-N-Stein can be a bit loose, although you'll
always find them open for lunch during the week and dinner every
night except Sunday and Monday. The door is often open for lunch
on Saturdays.
Because my husband can never pass up a piece of pie, we said
our goodbyes to Zimmerman and his charming pub and wandered
across the street to Cedars Restaurant, where some of the best
pie in Whatcom County is served. Barb O'Brine's pies are
amazing, and my husband and Kris settled into warm slices of
French apple while I dreamily downed my divine banana cream
chockfull of fresh banana slices.
I can't think of a more enjoyable way to spend an evening in
Ferndale.