No small results

Frank-N-Stein pleases despite limited space

Stacee Sledge

Apr 17, 2003 Sometimes thinking small can lead to big things.

Open since last July, Ferndale's Frank-N-Stein serves locally brewed ales, Mount Baker Vineyard wines and an assortment of sausages in a charming, cozy, Main Street space that boasts less than 500 square feet. Franks and steins; hence the name.

But like its limited menu, the smoke-free Frank-N-Stein shoehorns a lot of character into every square inch of space.

A recent visit found a trio of us in Ferndale on a Wednesday night, looking for a bite to eat. Spotting Frank-N-Stein on the main drag of Ferndale, we decided to give it a go. The name itself is enough to draw you in.

The first thing you notice when you enter the petite pub is its narrowness.

Then you see the impressive bar, once part of the buffet at Bellingham's King Table's restaurant. Made by a local artist and available for sale, a collection of funky wood birdhouses decorate the cozy space.

Busily working behind the bar was owner Lloyd Zimmerman, a Blaine native who has transformed this 460-square-foot former barbershop into a desired destination for anyone looking for quality ales, affordable eats and a gracious welcome.

Frank-N-Stein is a decidedly family-friendly place. Kids will slurp up the pub's homemade Max's Root Beer, named for Zimmerman's son Maxwell.

Frank-N-Stein

Location: 
2030 Main St., Ferndale.

Phone: 383-0707

Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., Tuesday through Friday. 4 to 9 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday

Serving: Hempler's smoked sausages, locally brewed ales and Mount Baker Vineyards wines.

Menu items sampled:
Frankfurter $3.75 
Bratwurst $3.75 
Kielbasa $3.75 
Border Porter $3.50
Boundary Bay Blonde $3.50 
Scottish Pale Ale $3.50 
Root beer $1.50

Ordering was simple at Frank-N-Stein: Each of us was simultaneously given a hearty hello and a slip of paper listing the sausage and drink offerings. We simply circled what we wanted, signed our names at the bottom of each slip, and slid them across the bar to Zimmerman.

The menu is limited, serving five different Hempler's B.B. Meat & Sausage products, including frankfurter, knockwurst, bratwurst, German sausage and kielbasa.

But if you know anything about Hempler's a long-popular Bellingham company that sells no-nitrate ham, bacon and sausage using naturally grown Oregon Country Beef you know it creates high-quality, flavorful sausages.

The condiment choices add to the options: sauerkraut, onions, green chili, cream cheese, mustard and ketchup.

You can have your sausage served in one of three ways: the Dracula (on a stake), the mummy (wrapped in a flour tortilla) or the monster (built the way you want it on a bun).

Let's not forget the main draw at Frank-N-Stein: Zimmerman serves ales made on-site at the half-brew pub, as well as beers from other local breweries, such as Boundary Bay. In fact, Boundary Bay's Ed Bennett helped Zimmerman get Frank-N-Stein off the ground.

Zimmerman brews delicate, unfiltered, unpasteurized ales that have a shorter shelf-life than those you'll find at Boundary, so they're meant to be consumed within a few weeks.

At such paltry prices $2.50 for a 10-ounce micro-stein and $3.50 for 16 ounces you can sample each of the handful on tap. We ended up trying Ed Bennett's Boundary Bay Blonde, a Scottish pale ale and Zimmerman's dark Border Porter, featured for many years at Blaine's Bordertown Tavern.

Because the front area of the pub was filled, we made our way to a narrow hallway at the back and settled on high stools perched at a tall round table.

After a short wait, Zimmerman brought our mugs of ale and root beer, served in tall, heavy steins of clear glass. Each drink was a hit.

A few minutes later, Zimmerman showed up with the food, passing out red baskets lined with red-and-white checkered paper. He had taken the time to note each of our names on our order slips and placed our sausages in front of each of us with a casual mention of which basket belonged to whom.

Kris had a classic frankfurter with Dijon mustard, ketchup and onions, while my husband went with a bratwurst covered in the same condiments. I chose the Polish kielbasa simply topped with Dijon and onion. Each was flavorful, especially the kielbasa with its spicy kick.

Zimmerman doesn't skimp on anything; the heap of sliced red onions scattered over each sausage was almost overwhelming.

The delicious, oversized buns encased each sausage and its surplus of condiments. I can't remember when I've had better not even at the ballpark.

We were all impressed with the meal and with Zimmerman's ability to stop by and talk with us without being intrusive. His friendliness alone would draw each of us back, and it was just gravy that the meal was so delicious, simple and affordable.

Hours at Frank-N-Stein can be a bit loose, although you'll always find them open for lunch during the week and dinner every night except Sunday and Monday. The door is often open for lunch on Saturdays.

Because my husband can never pass up a piece of pie, we said our goodbyes to Zimmerman and his charming pub and wandered across the street to Cedars Restaurant, where some of the best pie in Whatcom County is served. Barb O'Brine's pies are amazing, and my husband and Kris settled into warm slices of French apple while I dreamily downed my divine banana cream chockfull of fresh banana slices.

I can't think of a more enjoyable way to spend an evening in Ferndale.

The Fine Print: I dine on my own dime. The opinions herein are mine alone, not The Bellingham Herald's. Agree? Disagree? Please drop me a line at StaceeSledge@hotmail.com.

 

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