A charming Italian

Head chef Giuseppe Mauro (left) and Trevor Tomlinson, assistant chef, prepare ciappino, a seafood soup, and a filleto in pepper sauce. JAY DROWNS HERALD PHOTO

Good food, inviting atmosphere at Giuseppe's

Stacee Sledge

May 16, 2002 It's childish, I know, but I didn't want to like Giuseppe's Italian Restaurant.

The new downtown eatery opened up shop in the vacated space of my all-time favorite Bellingham restaurant, boZak, which never caught on with Whatcom diners. Its nouveau cuisine had found a special spot in this food lover's heart and I was sad to see it go.

But Giuseppe's won me over.

Four of us spent a recent Saturday night at the open, airy restaurant. Gone is the sleek modern sheen of boZak.

Patrons now enter through a dramatic archway into an open two-story dining room with several large plants. The soaring walls are painted in soft peach and cream tones and faux balconies loom above with cascading silk flowers.

One of my dining companions is a regular traveler to Italy. She thought the décor was a bit heavy handed, calling it "theme park Italian," but I think the average diner will find it charming. I certainly did.

Giuseppe's Italian Restaurant

Location:
1309 N. Commercial

Phone: 714-8412

Serving: Fine Italian dining in a cozy family atmosphere.

Menu items sampled: Insalata della casa $4.95
Spaghetti alla Bolognese $11.50
Gnocchi di patate $11.95
Ravioli della nonna $12.50
Penne ala messinese $12.95
Crème caramelle $4.50
Chocolate truffle $5
Tangerine sorbet $5
Tiramisu $4.50
Coffee $1.50
Hot tea $1.50

We arrived quite early, and even in daylight hours, the restaurant held a feeling of the special occasion.

A tuxedo-clad pianist provided soft background music while a plethora of black-and-white-clad servers milled around the front of the dining room, waiting for the many patrons who would arrive before our lengthy, relaxing meal was over.

Our server immediately brought us a basket of warm bread and took our drink orders. The staff seems to take a pride in the place, and our server was helpful with recommendations and suggestions. She clearly knew and enjoys the food at Giuseppe's.

Two of us wanted to start with a salad, and she informed us that one insalata della casa was plenty for two to share. She was right. We were each brought plates heaping with flavorful baby greens topped with crumbled gorgonzola cheese and a light balsamic vinaigrette.

My spaghetti alla Bolognese was a colossal swirl of al dente spaghetti covered in a generous ladleful of slowly simmered meat sauce.

Chockfull of large pieces of aromatic meat, the sauce had a pleasing slightly sweet taste.

My Italophile friend has sampled the best of authentic Italian cuisine. She was pleased to find her gnocchi di patate prepared correctly, a rarity, she's found, in most Italian restaurants in America.

The quality was superb: the homemade potato dumplings cooked to a firm al dente, rather than a mushy mess, and served with a simple marinara.

We all sampled bites of one another's dishes, and unanimously declared the ravioli della nonna our favorite. Round oversized ravioli were stuffed plump with cheese then covered with a flavorful sauce that mixed tomato with creamy pesto. It was splendid.

My husband tried the penne ala messinese, a generous bowl of al dente penne served with sautéed chicken, mushrooms and a creamy gorgonzola sauce. The bowl ended up empty, a strong indication of his feelings for the dish.

Dessert was a delight, and ranged from rich tiramisu, tart tangerine sorbet served charmingly in a hollowed-out tangerine and calorie-laden crème caramelle to a chocolate truffle.

Aside from the truffle, which is imported from Italy, most of the desserts are prepared in Giuseppe's kitchen.

Giuseppe's also offers salmon, veal, steak and lamb entrées at slightly higher prices than the pasta dishes. We enjoyed an upscale dining experience at a truly comfortable cost.

Through the month of May, Giuseppe's is offering 20 percent off lunch items and 20 percent off all dinner entrées and appetizers from 5:00 p.m. to 6:30 p.m., Monday through Friday.

Trained in Sicily, proprietor Giuseppe Mauro has worked in cities all over the world, including Frankfurt, Paris, France and London.

The menu states the kitchen is happy to prepare a special dish for any patron. I'll be back soon to request those beautiful gnocchi drenched in that savory tomato and cream pesto sauce.

The Fine Print: I dine on my own dime. The opinions herein are mine alone, not the Bellingham Herald's. Agree? Disagree? Please drop me a line at StaceeSledge@hotmail.com.

 

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