Buffet done right

Anna Lou (left) and Hunt Hollenbeck of Lummi Island share a toast while enjoying a lunch of grilled salmon, Swiss almond quiche, salads and Benziger Chardonnay at Harborside Bistro. PETE KENDALL HERALD PHOTO

Harborside Bistro serves an elegant spread

Stacee Sledge

May 9, 2002 Who doesn't have an unpleasant memory of bellying up to a buffet? Overcooked or underwarm food that's been sitting under lamps for too long. Consistency gone inconsistent compared to freshly prepared counterparts served in traditional restaurants. That unpleasant overstuffed feeling as you waddle out the door.

But the buffet at Harborside Bistro in the Hotel Bellwether offers the exact opposite of those bad buffet experiences, serving an upscale, uplifting delight of a meal in a stunning setting on Bellingham Bay.

The short stroll through the lobby of the Bellwether to the entrance of the Harborside Bistro dining room is enchanting, with the feel of a luxurious European hotel.

We were warmly welcomed into the elegant room lined in dark wood and directed to a corner table with a gorgeous view of the bay. A large terrace dining area rested between us and the water, which I look forward to returning for this summer.

As we walked to our table, we passed the buffet, tucked into a small alcove and beautifully displayed globe-shaped silver serving dishes at a variety of heights.

Mother's Day Brunch

Harborside Bistro is offering a special Mother's Day brunch, from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., for $21.50 per person. Visit its Web site www.harborsidebistro.com for more information, a detailed menu and exhaustive wine list.

The décor was lush yet simple, our table covered in a peach-colored linen tablecloth holding crisp white linen napkins and a single fresh rose in a vase, with a dark gray cornice resting above the large window.

Dozens of bottles of wine were displayed in a climate-controlled wine cellar and other unenclosed wine racks. I also spied oversized, inviting, booths at the other end of the dining room.

We ordered coffee and settled back to enjoy our surroundings for a few minutes before visiting the buffet. The ambience lends itself to relaxing and taking your time.

The quality and quantity of food was just right. Nothing was filler and everything fit well with the next dish.

Harborside Bistro

Location:
One Bellwether Way

Phone: 392-3200

Serving: An upscale brunch buffet suitable for any special occasion. Lunch, brunch, afternoon tea, and dinner.

Menu items sampled: Sunday brunch buffet $14.50, $7.50 for children younger than 12; price includes coffee and hot tea

Of all the tasty treats available at the buffet, my favorite may have been the Caesar salad. A large platter of crisp romaine lettuce was displayed alongside Caesar dressing and a myriad of toppings, including crunchy croutons, salmon, salty anchovies, piquant minced garlic, thin slices of red onion, fresh-grated parmesan cheese and tangy capers.

Also high atop my long list of delectable items at the Harborside Bistro buffet was the cheese plate. Served aside bias-cut slices of crusty French bread were several domestic and imported cheeses, including bleu cheese, Brie, cheddar and a goat cheese topped with herbs that was fabulous. My friend Julie and I both thought it might be too early in the day for such a strong cheese, but it turned out to be just the thing to start the meal.

Fresh fruit abounded, as well as freshly baked croissants and a blueberry coffee cake. The menu outside had stipulated muffins, scones and assorted pastries, but none were to be found. In the end, they weren't really missed, as there were so many other scrumptious goodies to sample.

The downfall of most buffets is the hot items. No such problems at Harborside Bistro, as we enjoyed scrambled eggs, buttermilk pancakes, hash browns, eggs benedict, sausage, bacon and ham.

Everything got high marks from our group. The most exceptional items were the flavorful maple smoked bacon and savory hash browns, but nothing here was lacking.

After all that delectable food, we were still ready to go back and sample the desserts. To our delight, we returned to our table to find our previous plates whisked away, our napkins refolded neatly, and our coffees refilled. It was a reflection of the fabulous service we enjoyed during the entire meal. Although she never hovered, our affable server always magically appeared before we even realized we wanted more coffee or water.

Each of us selected one dessert item. I tried a small wedge of springy chocolate cake with a sinful ganache topping, my husband sampled a slice of light, creamy cheesecake, and Julie chose a square of rich fruit crumble with a shortbread-like crust and a thick stripe of raspberry puree crowned with a crumbly cobbler-like topping.

As our server brought us our check, she mentioned that we were free to view the restaurant's wine cellar. We didn't take her up on the offer this time, but I imagine I'll be back for an evening meal soon, and will take a look then.

The Fine Print: I dine on my own dime. The opinions herein are mine alone, not the Bellingham Herald's. Agree? Disagree? Please drop me a line at StaceeSledge@hotmail.com.

 

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