Celebrate Taco Lobo's return

Stacee Sledge

Dec 13, 2001 — If you're looking for a fast, friendly Mexican dining experience, gaze no further than Taco Lobo. A fire caused extensive damage to the downtown restaurant in March, but after seven months of restoration, the eatery re-opened in October, to again slake the hunger of fans of freshly made food served in a warm, casual atmosphere.

Colorful mosaic-tiled café tables stand just outside the entrance, under a vibrant neon-accented awning. Leather seats beckon, making it a lovely place in warmer months to watch passers-by.

Inside, the lower half of the walls are splattered vivid yellow and orange, then dissected by a line of neon light that directs its glow on the pale upper half of the walls. Sun-themed art pieces dot the space, while a colorful three-dimensional desert mural dominates one wall.

Orders are placed at the counter, where service is gracious and helpful. While mulling over our choices, I noticed a cook in the open area of the kitchen hard at work with a traditional wood tortilla press so I knew we were in for a high-quality dining experience.

But first, we had to make our food selections. The menu at Taco Lobo is filled with tantalizing treats, ranging from three different varieties of nachos and the usual Mexican fare, such as enchiladas and burritos, to the unexpected tortas and sopes.

There are also nearly two dozen brews with which to wash down your meal. My friends and I each settled on different dishes, then took a number and a toasty-warm basket of light, crunchy tortilla chips back to our seat to wait for their arrival.

Taco Lobo

Location:  117 West Magnolia St.  Phone: 756-0711 Menu items sampled:   Taco de pescado $2.75-$9.25 Quesadilla $3.75-$6.95-$8.75 Chicken tamale $2.75 Pollo en salsa verde burrito $4.95-$7.55 Alaskan Amber $3 Dos Equis Lager $3

At the salsa bar, an array of hand-cut salsas and picante sauces were displayed, as well as a creamy guacamole and whole chiles. We scooped up several small bowls and filled them with the different condiments. All come highly recommended — although if you're a guacamole connoisseur, you may find Taco Lobo's version a bit thinner consistency than you're used to. We had barely finished our basket of chips when the entrées arrived.

Rather than resting flat on the plate, the cheese quesadilla was folded into a taco shape. The tortilla was light and airy, encasing melted cheese, lettuce, tomato and sour cream.

There are nearly a dozen different burritos to choose from on Taco Lobo's menu, ranging from carnitas (top sirloin) to al pastor (pork with pineapple). My dining companion chose the pollo en salsa verde (chicken in green sauce) burrito, giving it a light coating of guacamole before diving in.

He declared it simple (in a good way), stressing that the tortilla was light with no trace of grease or oil.

The taco de pescado, or halibut taco, was succulent, served with fresh tomatoes and iceberg lettuce shavings on a soft and fresh flour tortilla.

The dinner entrée consists of three tacos and a side of pleasing beans and rice.

The chicken tamale, like everything else we tried, was just the right texture and flavor. This popular Mexican dish is coated with masa dough and wrapped in a softened corn husk, then tied and steamed until the dough is cooked through. Peeling back the corn husk, I bit into a mixture of tender shredded chicken and minced chile.

Tables were cleaned off the moment they were emptied, and then filled by more hungry patrons. The small, well-lit restaurant holds nine tables, and on our Saturday-evening visit, nearly all were full. The place buzzes with activity, yet feels relaxed and welcoming.

Most menu selections can be ordered a la carte, or as a lunch or dinner entrée (including rice and beans), so prices will vary. But no matter which you choose, the atmosphere, fare and friendly service will be yours for a bargain.