More than noodles

Annie Mors, holding her freshly made tiramisu, is the owner of That Pasta Place, Etc., in Lynden. PETE KENDALL HERALD PHOTO

That Pasta Place's servings are fresh, flavorful

Stacee Sledge

May 30, 2002 — Preparing pasta can seem deceptively simple. Boil water, sprinkle in a touch of salt, stir in noodles, wait a few minutes, and you have dinner.

But there's more to it than that, and That Pasta Place, Etc. in Lynden knows it.

Perched on the second story of Delft Mall overlooking Front Street, the restaurant retains a cozy small-town feel. The décor of the long, narrow restaurant is pleasantly simple. During our early evening visit the room was bright and cheery, owing to large plate glass windows. The color scheme centers around warm wood, burgundy and dark green, with accents of grape bunches and vines. Silk tulips decorated each table.

That Pasta Place, Etc. offers a variety of fresh and filled pastas that include penne, fettucine, linguine, spaghetti, angel hair and buckwheat, as well as meat or cheese ravioli or cheese pasta purses. Any of these can be complemented with one of five homemade sauces, from a simple red to clam, Alfredo, creamy pesto or meat sauce. Various extras can be added, including prawns, smoked salmon, chicken breast, mushrooms, meatballs, and sausage. Mix and match away, ordering what you crave.

The quaint eatery also offers traditional pasta entrées, such as chicken scampi, chicken parmesan, seafood linguine and eggplant parmesan. Kid-friendly options include chicken strips, "That'sa Nice" burger and fish and chips.

That Pasta Place, Etc.

Location:   444 Front St., No. 251, Lynden Phone: 318-1903 Serving: Simple and pleasing pasta dishes in a casual, small-town setting. Menu items sampled: Combo appetizer platter $6.95 Baked lasagna $9.95 Fettucine Alfredo (large) $8.95 Linguine with pesto (small) $7.95 Tiramisu $3.95

We began with a nicely proportioned appetizer combo platter of mozzarella sticks, zucchini chips and breaded mushrooms.

The mushrooms were savory and steaming hot. The zucchini were breaded with a lighter touch, allowing the delicate flavor to peek through. Unfortunately the long, narrow mozzarella sticks were served on the lukewarm side and — as fried foods will do — quickly grew colder, which made for a less-than-pleasing consistency.

The dipping sauces served with the platter were satisfying: a bit of the restaurant's red sauce and a punchy ranch dressing. The menu listed onion rings as part of the combo, but none were to be found.

Triangles of warm, soft focaccia bread were also served before the meal, accompanied by a mixture of smooth olive oil and sharp balsamic vinegar.

A Caesar salad of crisp romaine hearts arrived with a simple dressing and Parmesan cheese. Uniform square croutons that could have been poured from a box were sprinkled throughout; fresh would have made a more fitting crowning touch, as these didn't hold much flavor.

The green garden salad was lovely, including fresh greens and mushrooms, black olives, grape tomatoes, Parmesan cheese, and the somewhat-disappointing croutons.

My baked lasagna was remarkable. Three cheeses were layered generously between sheets of fresh lasagna noodles, seasoned ground beef and their rich red sauce of tomatoes, onions, garlic and Italian seasoning.

My friend Julie chose fresh fettuccine with pesto cream sauce and prawns. She settled on the small portion, and found the size to be more than filling. The pasta was a smidge overcooked for her taste, but the creamy verdant sauce was aromatic and appetizing. There was definitely a high cream-to-pesto ratio going on, leading to one decadent dish. Five succulent, pan-fried prawns were tossed in the mix, alongside bits of chewy walnut, adding further interest.

My husband went with his favorite traditional pasta dish: fettuccine with Alfredo sauce. The rich, cream-based sauce made with butter, garlic and Parmesan cheese was simple, but satisfying. Hmm. Cream, butter, garlic, cheese. Wonder why it's his favorite?

After examining the dessert options, which included spumoni ice cream, mocha mud pie, and cookies and cream pie, we decided to split an order of tiramisu. This Italian delicacy is made with Mascarpone cheese, ladyfingers and espresso.

The version served at That Pasta Place, Etc. was unlike any I've had before. The nontraditional version included a liberal topping of chocolate sauce, a dollop of whipped cream, and the delightful surprise of a chocolate-covered espresso bean plopped on top. The consistency was much thinner than other tiramisu I've tried, but it made a pleasant ending to a pleasant meal.

The Fine Print: I dine on my own dime. The opinions herein are mine alone, not the Bellingham Herald's. Agree? Disagree? Please drop me a line at StaceeSledge@hotmail.com.