Prime time

Robert Mott slices choice ribeye steaks at Pacific Prime Rib in Ferndale. Mott is the chef and owner. PETE KENDALL HERALD PHOTO

A sublime meal from Pacific Prime Rib

Stacee Sledge

Aug 15, 2002 I'm from the Midwest, so I grew up enjoying quality steak cooked correctly. But over the years, I've moved away from eating it as often. If I do, it's usually a special occasion.

When my husband and I recently visited Pacific Prime Rib in Ferndale, I opted for a pasta dish tinged with beef, but he went all out, ordering the 8-ounce tenderloin.

Foodwise, we were anything but disappointed. Every course, from the fresh, hot dinner rolls to the chocolaty, decadent dessert was nothing short of sensational.

Unfortunately, what started out as stellar service deteriorated over the course of the evening, ending in an interminably long wait for a bill that charged us more than the menu had promised. But the excellence of the eats was enough to convince me that this restaurant really knows what it's doing in the kitchen it simply appeared to be short-staffed on the night of our visit.

Entering the main dining room at Pacific Prime Rib, we were led through a couple of smaller rooms. Everything radiates Victorian appeal in this sizeable restaurant, from the impressive antique pieces to the mahogany staircase banister that leads up to the wine room.

The window-lined main dining room is built around the outside of the original Victorian house. I counted more than a dozen tables in the main dining room, and the other rooms had several tables apiece, as well.

Pacific Prime Rib

Location:
2254 Douglas Road, Ferndale

Phone: 384-5111

Menu items sampled:
Crab stuffed mushrooms $8.99

Caesar salad $1 added to cost of entrée
Tenderloin $21.99
Pacific stroganoff $14.99
Chocolate decadence torte $4.25
Fish Tale Pale Ale $3

Which is apt, since the largest cut of meat you can order is gargantuan.

From the comparably tiny 8-ounce tenderloin to a 16-ounce T-bone, there's something for every appetite size at Pacific Prime Rib. The 20-ounce California cut still not enough for you? For each additional 4 ounces you require, simply add $3.

Prime rib and steak selections can be topped with mushrooms and onions; herbs and spices; a brandy demi-glaze; or Dungeness crab, shrimp and béarnaise.

And you don't have to be strictly a meat lover to find yourself enthralled with the menu. With prawns, oysters, crab legs and lobster available, if you're a seafood fan, you'll be pleased. Inventive pasta dishes and chicken entrees round out the extensive menu.

The lengthy list of appetizers was tempting indeed. Two kinds of shrimp cocktail, crab cakes, oyster shooters, "drunken mushroom sauté," Pacific cheese loaf, crab cocktail and a seafood sampler of an array of these served with a Cajun aioli. It was difficult to choose.

We began with an appetizer of crab-stuffed mushrooms, six large mushroom caps stuffed with a rich Dungeness crab and cream cheese mixture, peppered with the finest mince of garlic and red and green pepper. Topped with a layer of Parmesan cheese baked to just the slightest crust, each bite yielded scrumptiously to the velvety mixture underneath.

I chose the garden salad with my entree, topped with a tangy Italian dressing made onsite, like all of their many choices, from raspberry vinaigrette to French. The homemade croutons crowning the crisp greens were sublime and made the simple salad something special.

Asked if he preferred his Caesar salad with or without anchovies, my husband chose the latter, and still enjoyed the flavorful, well-coated romaine lettuce, topped with freshly shaved Parmesan and the slightest lemon flavor.

My Pacific stroganoff offered curls of al dente fettuccine covered with a rich Dijon brandy cream sauce and layered with the balancing flavors of shallots, mushrooms and garlic. The liberal slices of beef were melt-in-your-mouth tender.

My husband's tenderloin was as fine as any I've ever enjoyed. The USDA choice beef was cooked exactly to his specification of medium rare, lightly seasoned and simply divine. Easily worthy of the Iowa State Fair.

For dessert, we made the difficult choice between chocolate decadence torte, crème brûlée, carrot cake and cheesecake. We settled on the rich, dense, delectable torte, complete with fresh whipped cream and a swirl of raspberry and blueberry sauce.

The atmosphere was charming, the service during the first half of our meal friendly to a fault and attentive to boot. And the food? Fabulous.

But as Pacific Prime Rib in Ferndale began to fill up, service slowed to a crawl, and we were left waiting more than 25 minutes from the time our shared dessert plate was bare until the check was placed in front of us. Our moods darkened somewhat with the decline in service.

I can't really blame our server. He was doing the best he could teamed with only one other server and a bustling busperson to take care of a growing crowd of patrons in the large dining room. Before he became overextended, he had been informative and friendly. He even handled the problem of a filthy knife on the freshly set table with aplomb, whisking it away and replacing it in a flash and with a contagious laugh.

But the annoyances didn't end with the exceptionally long wait for the check. A special "twilight" menu had been given to us at the beginning of the meal, denoting my Pacific stroganoff at a special price, but we were charged the regular $14.99. Our crab-stuffed mushrooms also came to a higher price than had been stated on the regular menu.

I didn't catch the error before we paid because, after about 20 minutes of looking into our empty coffee cups, we had resorted to setting our credit card on the edge of the table as a hint that we were more than ready to settle up. When our waiter finally brought the bill, I simply handed the card over without looking at the check. Unfortunately, I didn't realize the mistakes until after we paid.

On our way out, I stopped our server to ask about the inconsistencies. He was harried and didn't seem to believe that we had been overcharged. I explained the problem in more detail until he was able to see the errors.

He finally offered to fix it, but again in a very rushed manner, explaining that he would have to void our first transaction, then re-ring the entire order.

Remembering the length of time it took to pay the bill the first time, I declined and we beat a quick retreat. A $4 mistake just wasn't worth the mounting frustration. Next time and there will be a next time, because the food was just too good not to return I'll examine the bill closely before handing over my credit card.

The Fine Print: I dine on my own dime. The opinions herein are mine alone, not The Bellingham Herald's. Agree? Disagree? Please drop me a line at StaceeSledge@hotmail.com.

 

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