Ethnic ecstasy

Café's worldly menu changes each month

Stacee Sledge

Oct 16, 2003 Looking for a not-far-away morning, afternoon or evening getaway? Take the stunningly scenic route that winds down Chuckanut Drive until it empties out into the flat, fertile valley. Pull in at the charming Rhododendron Café and ready yourself for a memorable meal.

Choose breakfast, lunch or dinner you'll climb back into your car feeling satiated, a little bit pampered and utterly relaxed.

In April of next year, the Rhododendron will mark its 20th anniversary. That's 20 years of serving the freshest Northwest foods imaginable, mixed with exotic dishes from around the world. In fact, you'd be hard pressed to find a restaurant in our area that serves a more eclectic ethnic menu, as each month finds the staff focusing on a different area of the world.

Rhododendron Café

Location: 5521 Chuckanut Drive, Bow

Phone: (360) 766-6667

Hours: 
11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., Wednesday through Friday
9 a.m. to 9 p.m., Saturday and Sunday

Serving: A delicious mix of Northwest fare and ethnic foods, for breakfast, lunch and dinner. A classic Skagit Valley restaurant.

Menu items sampled: Baked goat cheese crostini $8.50 
Mixed greens $2.75 
Caesar salad $3.75 
Cassoulet $16.95 
Chicken Parmesan $12.95 
Gateau chocolat $5 
Eggs benedict $8.95 
Omelet $8.50 
Orange juice $2

A recent Sunday night found us pulling up in front of the café for dinner. The place was bustling and we had to wait a few minutes for a table, but the restaurant provides a spacious waiting area behind the dining room.

We were eventually seated at one of my favorite tables in the window and were instantly greeted and brought glasses of water and menus.

My eye fell immediately to the baked goat cheese crostini appetizer. It sounded so divine that I couldn't be swayed by the other tempting starters. I'm glad I listen to my intuition on such matters, because the appetizer instantly shot to my list of top five favorites.

Two orbs of goat cheese rested next to one another in a small bowl of olive oil. Each ball had been rubbed in fresh herbs and was joined by long strips of roasted red bell pepper. The plate resting underneath this bowl of cheesy goodness held seven sizable slices of slightly toasted bias-cut crostini.

As our server came to retrieve the quickly emptied platter, she removed the bowl of olive oil and dregs of missed chevre, noting that we might want to use up the rest of it as a dipping sauce for our bread. Had she read our minds?

A basket of fresh-from-the-oven bread, wrapped in linen napkin to hold in the heat, was brought to our table next. This wasn't just warmed bread; it had clearly just finished baking. Each chewy slice was made all the more enjoyable by the leftover olive oil.

My mixed green salad arrived next, drizzled in a savory creamy cheddar dressing. Too often greens are overpowered by dressings, but the Rhododendron knows appropriate portioning and hit just the right balance.

My husband's Caesar salad was presented beautifully, long leaves of romaine lettuce sprinkled with garlic vinaigrette and Parmesan.

Our entrées arrived not long after we finished our salads. My husband ordered the cassoulet, a classic French dish of white beans and various meats, covered and cooked slowly to pull together the flavors. The thick, hearty stew mingled the plump beans with ample pieces of duck, lamb and sausage baked with tomato juice and herbs.

I enjoyed chicken Parmesan, a Washington-grown chicken breast lightly breaded and fried, topped with a robust marinara sauce and sided with pasta and fresh cooked vegetables.

I think my husband uttered the word "exceptional" half a dozen times as we shared a wedge of flourless chocolate cake. Set atop a yin and yang of crème anglaise and marionberry coulis and topped with the most sugary dollop of freshly whipped cream I've ever tasted, the dessert was beyond divine.

Last Saturday found us ready for another visit to the Rhododendron, so we piled into the car, stopped at the outlet mall on the way (saving the scenic route for our drive home), and pulled up at 11 a.m., with half an hour left of the breakfast service.

Breakfast at the Rhododendron means simple fare prepared with care.

I went the traditional route and ordered a ham and cheddar cheese omelet, while my husband ordered from the specials board.

After taking our orders, our smiling server brought us a complimentary surprise of Russian coffeecake with chocolate chips, coconut and dried apricot, served with a wedge of melon and fresh pineapple.

Just a few scant minutes later, she returned and placed two plates heaping with food on our table, while concurrently apologizing to the table next to us. She told them that she had mistakenly put our order in with the kitchen in place of theirs. The couple was gracious, and we jokingly apologized to them as we dug into our plentiful portions.

I overheard the couple re-placing their order with our server and noted that their choices were identical to ours, save for the omelet ingredients: I'd asked for ham, while the gentleman seated next to us ordered Italian sausage; my husband and the woman at the table both ordered the same special.

Imagine my surprise when I slid my fork into the fluffy omelet only to find Italian sausage in place of ham. Rather than bring it to anyone's attention, I continued with the flavorful egg feast, chock full of mild, flavorful sausage and shredded cheddar cheese, topped with a sprig of flat leaf parsley and a tendril of roasted red bell pepper.

But I felt guilty while I enjoyed the meal, hoping the diners next to us didn't catch on that we were eating their breakfast.

My omelet (or, rather, my neighbor's omelet) was served with thinly sliced potatoes seasoned with garlic and browned ever so slightly. Thick slabs of homemade wheat toast also shared the plate, topped with fresh strawberry jam. A kiwi cut into a star shape garnished the plate.

My husband loved Rhododendron's take on eggs benedict. Poached eggs rested atop English muffins, tomato slices and Wild Oar bacon, topped with a light cheddar cheese sauce. I snuck one savory, satisfying bite.

When the check arrived, I noted that our server had written my order correctly on the ticket, so who knows why I received sausage instead of ham. To be honest, the meal was still so fantastic that, in the end, I didn't much mind anyway.

Rhododendron Café is a classic dining spot as evidenced by the crowds of regulars who flock their day in and day out. Peruse its menu and see which ethnic specialties are offered each month at www.rhodycafe.com.

The Fine Print: I dine on my own dime. The opinions herein are mine alone, not The Bellingham Herald's. Agree? Disagree? Please drop me a line at StaceeSledge@hotmail.com.

 

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