Jan
17, 2002 — What
had we gotten ourselves into?
My husband and I had just arrived at Seven Loaves after a
picturesque drive along Mount Baker Highway.
We made our way through the small, snow-dusted parking lot,
past a procession of fresh deer tracks, and into the warm,
inviting eatery, just as it was opening for the night.
Our server led us through the compact dining room, where we sat
at a wooden table and warmed ourselves at the glowing wood stove.
We glanced at the menu, and that's when I found myself in
uncharted territory: The chef's specialty was macrobiotic cooking.
Macro-what?
I now know that traditional macrobiotic practices include
consuming more whole grains, beans, and fresh veggies, eating
less, chewing more and maintaining an active and positive mental
outlook. Not so scary.
My mind was quickly put to ease when I noted the appetizers.
Lots of yummy choices here: smoked salmon quesadilla, rosemary
focaccia bread and roasted potatoes with garlic aioli, to name a
few.
Entrées varied from buffalo burgers to pizza. Buffalo- or
fish-filled tacos were also listed, with tortillas made in the
traditional method from whole dry corn cooked with wood ash,
ground into masa and formed individually in a cast iron tortilla
press.
We selected a buffalo burger and a veggie burger, then settled
back with mugs of soothing hot cocoa to enjoy the warmth of the
fire.
The restaurant's décor is clean and unadorned with a simple
A-frame dining room warmed by honey-colored wood rafters and plank
ceilings. A colorful red batik print hung on one wall, while
clusters of dried corn and greenery decorated the walls.
Windows and a partial glass roof surrounded the bumped-out
space at the back of the building where we sat. Trees loomed above
us, shooting straight to the sky. We later learned that the
restaurant's garden patch rests just beyond the windows.
Our starters arrived quickly, and we dug in. The house salad
was a crisp mix of greens and carrot shavings, sprinkled with
sunflower seeds and crunchy croutons. Miso-tahini dressing was
drizzled over the leaves, giving a subtle balance of peanut butter
and sesame flavors.
Served in a beautiful earthenware bowl, the soup of the day was
a pleasant peppery vegetable. Hominy, black beans, carrots, and
potatoes swam alongside garlic and fresh herbs.
The veggie burger at Seven Loaves was hands-down the best I've
had. A gargantuan patty made of grains, beans and a variety of
vegetables was served with garlic mayonnaise, mustard, lettuce,
onion and melted Gouda cheese. The outside had crunch, while the
inside remained tender and savory.
After sampling my husband's buffalo burger, I can make the same
"best ever" claim (although, admittedly, I've tried far
fewer buffalo burgers than veggie ones). A lean alternative to
beef, the buffalo patty offered a hearty, faintly sweet flavor.
All bread is made on-site, from a sourdough starter. The
freshly baked buns for both burgers were chewy and flavorful,
complementing their fillings well.
Both burgers came with a mound of thinly sliced roasted blue
potatoes on the side. Though they tasted the same as
"white" potatoes, they added an exotic touch.
One tenet of macrobiotic living is to eat in an orderly and
relaxed manner. The gracious staff at Seven Loaves made sure this
was the only way in which we could enjoy our meal. At one point,
our friendly server asked our permission to put on some music.
Soft strains of jazz fell softly from wall-mounted speakers. A few
minutes later, she returned to make sure the noise level was
acceptable.
Seven Loaves makes several intriguing pizzas, all served on
sourdough crust, in either white or whole wheat.
The Veggie Delight pizza features seasonal vegetables, cheese
and seitan pieces. Several dishes are built around seitan, a
protein-rich food made from wheat gluten and often used in
vegetarian dishes. Seitan is also known as "wheat meat,"
due to its chewy and meat-like texture. Unfortunately, the
restaurant was out of seitan the night of our visit, but we'll be
back to try this ingredient another time.
We had no room for dessert, but would have happily sampled the
"supernatural fudge brownie" or the vegan apple crumb
pie, yet another reason to return to this charming restaurant
tucked among the trees.
The next time you're headed back from a day of skiing, stop in
at Seven Loaves. The warm welcome — and steaming cocoa — will have
you cozy in no time.
