Irish at heart

Cook John Russell bakes bread in the oven next to roasting red peppers at Sheehan's. PETE KENDALL HERALD PHOTO

Sheehan's mixes old world charm, cuisine

Stacee Sledge

Mar 14, 2002 Irish cuisine generally gets a bad rap, sometimes with good reason. Historically, popular dishes included sea pig, salted pork, hare, venison, hedgehog and wild goats, often overcooked in one large pot alongside mushy vegetables. Ireland entered a culinary renaissance in the mid-1960s and moved beyond bland meat and potatoes. Many of today's Irish chefs create sophisticated, cutting-edge blends of traditional dishes and contemporary sensibilities.

Sheehan's, a new Irish-style pub and restaurant near Barkley Village, while not serving strictly authentic Irish dishes, borrows from the best Irish touches, offering just the right amount of jovial Irish sentiment and succulent cuisine.

I traveled to Ireland on my own several years ago. While my dining experience was more on-the-cheap I tended to grab a take-away sandwich and a bag of crisps from the newsagent shop I fell in love with the atmosphere of its pubs and cafes, where I enjoyed far too many cups of tea and pints of Guinness.

Sheehan's has taken great care to replicate that feeling of coziness and hospitality. Warm woodwork surrounds the entire space, punctuated by a decorative faux-tin ceiling and charming chandeliers. A blazing fire burns in one corner, bordered by a beckoning sofa and chairs. You feel at home and at ease the moment you step in the room.

Sheehan's

Location:
2200 Rimland Drive

Phone: 756-9669

Serving: Hot sandwiches, individual pizza pies, soups, salads, and steaks all borrowing from the best bits of Irish-style cuisine.

Menu items sampled:
Buffalo crackers and artichoke dip $4.95

Roasted game hen $13.95
Tenderloin $18.95
Tri-tip steak sandwich $7.95
Guinness chocolate cake $4.95
Raspberry cheesecake $5.95

We were seated immediately and promptly brought menus and water. The wood table was inlaid with colorful tiles, adding intriguing detail to the already pleasant décor.

Owner Ed Richards and his wife, executive chef Lisa Richards, both stopped at each table to offer friendly hellos, answered questions and generally made patrons feel welcome. It was an appreciated personal touch.

What trip to an Irish-style pub is complete without a pint of Guinness? The dark, frothy taste instantly transports me to the Temple Bar district of Dublin, where I spent my first jetlagged day in Ireland, getting reacquainted with my college friend Kate and enjoying the craic (Irish Gaelic, pronounced "crack," meaning the combination of music, drink, conversation and spirit of the surroundings) with her Irish boyfriend.

Although the Guinness in America doesn't taste exactly the same as that found in Ireland, it's more than enough to satisfy me. Sheehan's also has an extensive wine list and full bar.

We started with the buffalo crackers and artichoke dip. Puffy wedges of chewy bread were flavored with what co-owner and executive chef Lisa Richards described as "buffalo sauce," which to us had a tangy mustard taste. Accompanied by a creamy, subtle artichoke dip, the appetizer was a hit. We worked our way through the "crackers" quickly, and were brought another handful to finish off the dip. Between the three of us, we couldn't think of a better appetizer in town at a comparable price.

After much painstaking weighing of menu options, I went with the tri-tip steak sandwich. Thick slices of beef, piled with sautéed mushrooms and onions and a layer of melted cheese, rested between wide triangles of rustic herb bread. The accompanying chipotle lime cilantro mayonnaise gave the sandwich a fiery jolt, balanced and tamed a touch by the chewy bread.

My husband ordered the tenderloin, medium rare. Like most everything prepared at Sheehan's, it was cooked in their wood stove oven. Maybe that's their secret. All I know is this dish shot straight to the top of my all-time favorite list. And as good as my sandwich was, I was a little jealous that my husband was enjoying that tantalizing tenderloin instead of me.

Our friend chose the roasted game hen. Described on the menu as being prepared with pancetta and raspberry sage chipotle compound butter, the dish ultimately didn't leave much of an impression. It was lovingly prepared, and the herb-rubbed, crispy skin held delicately roasted meat, but the flavors of pancetta and raspberry sage chipotle were conspicuously missing.

All three entrées were accompanied by an assortment of roasted garlic potatoes, including new, blue and sweet potatoes, topped with crumbles of Gorgonzola cheese. This out-of-the-ordinary side dish brought a fresh twist to the commonplace potato.

The raspberry cheesecake was rather unconventional, baked and served hot from the oven, the top swirled with Cabernet chocolate sauce. Much to our delight, we found the heat intensified the flavors, which were some of my favorites to start with.

The black and tan Guinness chocolate cake arrived, a round, mini-cake, topped with a lovely chocolate "S."

My only reservation was that the drizzled caramel and chocolate over the top of the cake and around the plate had obviously been added much earlier in the day, then put in the refrigerator where it hardened. Fresh would have been a nicer touch. Still, the dense cake, interspersed with whole chocolate chips, was a treat.

Just the thing for St. Patrick's Day or any of the remaining 364 days of the year Sheehan's is a fantastic addition to the Barkley Village district of Bellingham.

You'll certainly find me there the next time I'm in the mood for a pint of Guinness, a satisfying meal and a little Irish hospitality.

The Fine Print: I dine on my own dime. The opinions herein are mine alone, not the Bellingham Herald's. Agree? Disagree? Please drop me a line at StaceeSledge@hotmail.com.

 

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