Dec
26, 2002 — I
can't believe how fast a year has flown by. Last December I
stepped up to the plate and took over the restaurant review
duties for the Herald. I'd published lots of writing before
getting this gig, but restaurant reviewing was new to me, and I
felt I had a lot to learn.
In the process of writing a year's worth of reviews, I
certainly have discovered more than I could ever have imagined.
I was a die-hard foodie before I began writing my column, so
I already knew about my favorite places in town: The Calumet,
Pepper Sisters, Pastazza, Orchard Street Brewery, the Cliff
House and the Black Cat.
But taking on this job meant thinking about area restaurants
in an entirely different way — and in doing so, I stumbled upon a few
new favorites that I otherwise might not have tried.
In mulling over my experiences of the past 12 months, I've
culled a list of my top 10 favorite culinary moments and
discoveries. Please dig in.
10. Growing up in Iowa in a decidedly
meat-and-potatoes family, how was I to know I was missing out on
the mouth-watering experience of a properly prepared vegetarian
entree? But Seven Loaves in Glacier made me a complete convert.
The veggie burger at Seven Loaves was hands-down the best
I've had. A gargantuan patty made of grains, beans and a variety
of vegetables was served with garlic mayonnaise, mustard,
lettuce, onion and melted Gouda cheese. The outside had crunch,
while the inside remained tender and savory. No, I haven't gone
totally vegetarian, but I've certainly seen the light.
9. I had no idea students at the Culinary Arts Program of
Bellingham Technical College were so talented, but one glorious
lunch at Cafe Culinaire, where the students practice their
craft, was all it took to earn my undying respect. Absolutely
some of the best food I've sampled in the area, with
breathtaking presentation and attention to detail.
Tender sea scallops served over noodles in a Sauvignon Blanc
and saffron-infused cream sauce. Pork loin grilled with fresh
rosemary tapenade and Whidbey Port sauce. Northwest salmon
fillets topped with sauteed onions and crab sandwiched between
leaf-thin-layers of phyllo dough and resting in a rich pool of
burgundy-colored Madeira butter sauce.
And each of these for under $7 a piece. I kid you not.
8. Another unexpected lesson learned this past year? I
love sushi! Until my first visit to Miyoshi, with my friends
Anna and Franko guiding me to order all their favorites, I had
no idea. From octopus to ahi tuna, the colorful creations at
Miyoshi were all appealing, unfailingly fresh-tasting and
savory.
And thanks to that enjoyable evening at Miyoshi, I'm now an
overwhelming fan of wasabi. Mashed potatoes? Yummy enough on
their own, but stir in a smidge of wasabi and you've really got
something to celebrate.
7. I'm a major pasta fan and thought I'd tried
everything there was to try. But Bella Isola in Anacortes
introduced me to the sublime penne con vodka.
All these many months later, I still daydream about those
rolled pasta tubes served with paper-thin prosciutto and tumbled
with tomato, cream and chili-pepper vodka sauce.
The saltiness of the prosciutto balanced beautifully the
cream's richness, while the vodka gave the dish bite. Thin
slices of garlic sprinkled throughout the dish added further
flavor and interest. Mi amore!
6. A self-proclaimed Food Network addict, I was
thrilled to find that Bellingham is home to a stellar chef who
once worked alongside Food Network star Emeril Lagasse. Run by
chef and manager Mark Moehn, Bistecca serves exemplary steaks. I
savored thin bias-cut slices of flank steak topped with equally
thin wedges of portobello that were then drizzled liberally in a
decadent sauce of truffle oil, tomatoes and shiitake, cremini
and porcini mushrooms.
Bistecca also serves what my husband and I have decided is
the best authentic tiramisu around — and we'd been happily hunting high and
low for some time.
5. I started a new job this summer and for the first
time in years found myself working outside of my home office. I
was delighted to learn about my co-workers' favorite lunch spot:
Hana Teriyaki. A modest eatery with even more modest prices,
consistently offers an affordable, tasty, healthy lunch for me
and the team I work with.
As much as I love its teriyaki, I usually treat myself to an
appetizer of gyozo for lunch, as the Japanese-style dumplings
are one of my all-time favorite foods. The portion at Hana
Teriyaki is generous, eight flavorful dumplings served with a
tangy soy-based dipping sauce. And it is prepared just how I
like it best, with a soft center and slightly crunchy edges.
4. Wild Garlic had been a favorite lunch spot of mine
for some time when I was assigned to cover it for an evening
meal, so I shouldn't have been so surprised to learn that it was
a magnificent place for a special occasion, formal dinner in a
relaxing atmosphere. But pleasantly surprised I was. We took my
visiting mother-in-law and sister-in-law along for what turned
out to be a very memorable meal for all.
Pork tenderloin is a favorite of mine, and Wild Garlic did it
with a tantalizing twist. The pan-seared cut of meat was
encrusted with hazelnuts and drizzled generously with a bing
cherry demi-glace. Sliced into bias-cut pieces, the tender,
savory meat was a succulent success.
3. I — with the help of my ever-patient
husband — have sampled several memorable
appetizers this year, but perhaps most impressive was the
oven-baked brie at the Oyster Creek Inn. A round of oozy,
warmed, butter-baked Brie was served with crunchy toast rounds.
I had to stop counting the number of roasted garlic cloves after
I reached 20. The melting cheese mixed with the roasted garlic
cloves made for an appetizer utterly impressive in its
simplicity and style.
2. I always define myself as a fan of savory foods,
rather than sweet. If I were stranded on a desert island with
only one food choice, it would inevitably be potatoes. But my
visit to the exceptional Mount Bakery gave me something to think
about.
Owner Olivier Vrambout creates sinful Belgian treats unlike
any I've experienced, from truffles to puff pastry, crème brûlée
to brioche. And the atmosphere of this charming eatery makes you
feel as if you've been transported to a bakery in Europe.
Olivier's chocolate pot de crème put my husband's to shame
(sorry, sweetie). Topped with a dollop of fresh whipped cream
and dark chocolate shavings, the silky mix of cream and
chocolate gave a subtle kick as it hit my tastebuds.
Maybe there would be room on the desert island for just a
morsel of Mount Bakery dessert.
And my favorite discovery over the past 12 months?
1. My readers. Your kind notes and e-mails are a
source of information and inspiration every week. Even when I
write a negative review, the exclamations of agreement ring much
louder than the disappointed voices. And that's certainly
something I never expected when I picked up my pen and started
writing about Whatcom County's many fabulous (and a few
not-so-fabulous) restaurants. Thank you for making my first year
so much fun. I look forward to many more meals eaten in your
honor this year and promise to continue giving you the straight
scoop.
